| Trainer Tips (cont'd) |
Question:
9. Microchip Indentification
9. Microchip Indentification
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The shelter automatically "microchipped" my dog before I adopted him.
Is this really a good form of indentification?
Is this really a good form of indentification?
Microchipping is a relatively new technology. In a nutshell, a small computer chip is injected with a
needle into the dog's skin at the base of the neck on his back. It's only a pinch and it doesn't bleed.
Most dogs I've seen receiving it don't even react. The computer chip stores an ID code in your dog.
When the chip is scanned, the code comes up. A phone call is then made to the company who's chip it
is. They can find the code in their computer data base. When the code comes up in their computer, it
will have all of your contact information and the operator can relay that information to the party (such as
a shelter) calling so they can find you and return your dog to you.
Obviously the pluses of this are your dog has a permanent piece of identification on them. The
information the company keeps on you is much more thorough than what you can fit on a dog tag.
Where I do support this technology, I want to make sure you are aware of things you need to do as an
owner to make the microchip valuable to you.
FIRST: It is 100% your responsibility to have accurate contact information in the microchip company's
data base. So, when you are moving or changing cell phone carriers, you MUST contact them and
update your info. I know when you are involved in a move, there are so many things to get straightened
out. Put contacting the microchip company at the top of your list. This is a very vital time for your dog. A
new home might be frightening or simply unfamiliar. A dog not used to the new place or new routine
associated with it, may escape.
Likewise, I recently found a dog on the street with a microchip. Apparently he had been adopted from a
shelter, but returned. The old owner's info was all the microchip company had, as the new owner never
sent in their info. There was no other way of finding the "new" owner. So he ended up, after signs in
the immediate neighborhood did no good, in a rescue group. (but a great home from there!)
SECOND: I still recommend backing up the microchip identification with a traditional dog tag.
Honestly, a great deal of the public (especially those who aren't dog owners) are unfamiliar with
microchipping. Where any shelter or rescue (and vet's office) will automatically check for a chip, if your
dog is found by a regular citizen who perceives your friendly, sweet dog as a stray because they don't
see a collar around his neck, they might keep him for themselves or find him a home avoiding the
shelter for fear he will be killed there if not claimed. (can't say I disagree with that thought)
Also, a regular tag with your address will allow for a much faster return rather than the dog having to be
taken to a facility that has a scanner and the company called and the information looked up.
FINALLY: One last caution: The microchip does have a possibility of shifting in your dog's skin. It's a
good idea when you go for your yearly check up to have someone in the office scan for the microchip
just to make sure it hasn't moved. Some people, when doing a quick scan, may not cover an area
outside of the spot the chip is generally found and it will appear that your dog is not microchipped.
I believe a buckle collar with a tag worn 24/7 with a dog tag is vital. Don't take it off just because you are
"at home." And make sure the collar is securely on. Every dog class I teach I start the first meeting with
the dogs by checking how tight the collars are. I can say, I have YET to find a collar on too tight. Most
collars are too loose. You should be able to JUST fit two flat fingers between the collar and your dog's
neck. If you can see through the collar- you lift it up and there is a gap- it is too loose. Not only could it
slip off, but it could get caught on something and your dog might be strangled (I have, in my time
working in vet's offices, see deaths like this)
Just remember, whatever you choose to do, that you NEVER KNOW if a situation will arise in which
your dog is separated from you. Save yourself the heartbreak of losing your buddy and have that
identification on him!
needle into the dog's skin at the base of the neck on his back. It's only a pinch and it doesn't bleed.
Most dogs I've seen receiving it don't even react. The computer chip stores an ID code in your dog.
When the chip is scanned, the code comes up. A phone call is then made to the company who's chip it
is. They can find the code in their computer data base. When the code comes up in their computer, it
will have all of your contact information and the operator can relay that information to the party (such as
a shelter) calling so they can find you and return your dog to you.
Obviously the pluses of this are your dog has a permanent piece of identification on them. The
information the company keeps on you is much more thorough than what you can fit on a dog tag.
Where I do support this technology, I want to make sure you are aware of things you need to do as an
owner to make the microchip valuable to you.
FIRST: It is 100% your responsibility to have accurate contact information in the microchip company's
data base. So, when you are moving or changing cell phone carriers, you MUST contact them and
update your info. I know when you are involved in a move, there are so many things to get straightened
out. Put contacting the microchip company at the top of your list. This is a very vital time for your dog. A
new home might be frightening or simply unfamiliar. A dog not used to the new place or new routine
associated with it, may escape.
Likewise, I recently found a dog on the street with a microchip. Apparently he had been adopted from a
shelter, but returned. The old owner's info was all the microchip company had, as the new owner never
sent in their info. There was no other way of finding the "new" owner. So he ended up, after signs in
the immediate neighborhood did no good, in a rescue group. (but a great home from there!)
SECOND: I still recommend backing up the microchip identification with a traditional dog tag.
Honestly, a great deal of the public (especially those who aren't dog owners) are unfamiliar with
microchipping. Where any shelter or rescue (and vet's office) will automatically check for a chip, if your
dog is found by a regular citizen who perceives your friendly, sweet dog as a stray because they don't
see a collar around his neck, they might keep him for themselves or find him a home avoiding the
shelter for fear he will be killed there if not claimed. (can't say I disagree with that thought)
Also, a regular tag with your address will allow for a much faster return rather than the dog having to be
taken to a facility that has a scanner and the company called and the information looked up.
FINALLY: One last caution: The microchip does have a possibility of shifting in your dog's skin. It's a
good idea when you go for your yearly check up to have someone in the office scan for the microchip
just to make sure it hasn't moved. Some people, when doing a quick scan, may not cover an area
outside of the spot the chip is generally found and it will appear that your dog is not microchipped.
I believe a buckle collar with a tag worn 24/7 with a dog tag is vital. Don't take it off just because you are
"at home." And make sure the collar is securely on. Every dog class I teach I start the first meeting with
the dogs by checking how tight the collars are. I can say, I have YET to find a collar on too tight. Most
collars are too loose. You should be able to JUST fit two flat fingers between the collar and your dog's
neck. If you can see through the collar- you lift it up and there is a gap- it is too loose. Not only could it
slip off, but it could get caught on something and your dog might be strangled (I have, in my time
working in vet's offices, see deaths like this)
Just remember, whatever you choose to do, that you NEVER KNOW if a situation will arise in which
your dog is separated from you. Save yourself the heartbreak of losing your buddy and have that
identification on him!
| All Dogs Featured were Rescued and now in Happy Homes |
| Andrew and Austin have their dog tags on! |
Follow Up Question regarding
Microchip Indentification
Microchip Indentification
We recently adopted a dog from a girl in the military who was preparing to deploy. She
delivered him to us, but as she was leaving our home, she mentioned that he was
microchipped. My first thought was this was good. But wait... she didn't change the
information and her home is 2 hours away... now what do I do? Can I simply take him to
the vet or local shelter and ask them to change it? Or do I have to track the previous
owner down and ask her to do it? She had the dog since he was born seven years ago and
the separation was very emotional for her. I don't want to scratch her wound, as it were.
delivered him to us, but as she was leaving our home, she mentioned that he was
microchipped. My first thought was this was good. But wait... she didn't change the
information and her home is 2 hours away... now what do I do? Can I simply take him to
the vet or local shelter and ask them to change it? Or do I have to track the previous
owner down and ask her to do it? She had the dog since he was born seven years ago and
the separation was very emotional for her. I don't want to scratch her wound, as it were.
Go to your vet and have them scan your new dog for the microchip.
There are two main microchip companies, and any good vet's office will be prepared with the proper
scanners for each one. When you have this done, you will learn which of the companies issued the
microchip in your dog. The scanner will read the ID number that is assigned to that chip. Make sure
you write down the ID number as that is how your dog is located in their computer system. Then you
can contact that company armed with the ID number. You should be able to inform them that you are
the new owner of the dog under that ID number, and that you wish to change all the contact
information in their system. This is how it should work in theory. I have had one student of mine who
was told she had to either have a new chip put in or have the other one "reprogrammed" which truly
made no sense to me. But the first step is contacting the company and trying to talk to someone to
change the information from the former owners to yours. This should in no way have to involve the
previous owner. If you got the dog from a shelter, for example, the original owner might have just
dumped the dog on the street and not be in the picture. So then what? Ya know?
Give this a try. If you have difficulty like my student did, ask to speak with a manager. This is
supposed to be for the welfare of the animal, not cause a huge headache and be full of red tape for
well meaning owners. In the meantime, make sure your dog has a proper collar with visible ID on at
all times as mentioned above so you can feel secure. This might be a rough transition time for the
dog after spending 7 years with another owner, so it's vital you have your information on him. And if
you have a regular collar ID, people will use that first before resorting to scanning for a microchip.
Just make sure the collar is on securely so it doesn't come off.
There are two main microchip companies, and any good vet's office will be prepared with the proper
scanners for each one. When you have this done, you will learn which of the companies issued the
microchip in your dog. The scanner will read the ID number that is assigned to that chip. Make sure
you write down the ID number as that is how your dog is located in their computer system. Then you
can contact that company armed with the ID number. You should be able to inform them that you are
the new owner of the dog under that ID number, and that you wish to change all the contact
information in their system. This is how it should work in theory. I have had one student of mine who
was told she had to either have a new chip put in or have the other one "reprogrammed" which truly
made no sense to me. But the first step is contacting the company and trying to talk to someone to
change the information from the former owners to yours. This should in no way have to involve the
previous owner. If you got the dog from a shelter, for example, the original owner might have just
dumped the dog on the street and not be in the picture. So then what? Ya know?
Give this a try. If you have difficulty like my student did, ask to speak with a manager. This is
supposed to be for the welfare of the animal, not cause a huge headache and be full of red tape for
well meaning owners. In the meantime, make sure your dog has a proper collar with visible ID on at
all times as mentioned above so you can feel secure. This might be a rough transition time for the
dog after spending 7 years with another owner, so it's vital you have your information on him. And if
you have a regular collar ID, people will use that first before resorting to scanning for a microchip.
Just make sure the collar is on securely so it doesn't come off.
| Nunzio |
Question:
10. Jumping Up on People
10. Jumping Up on People
I have received a few different requests for help with dogs jumping up onto people.
So here are the techniques I teach day one of every dog obedience class:
So here are the techniques I teach day one of every dog obedience class:
you to do something else instead. The "sit" command.
you to do something else instead. The "sit" command.
When does she normally jump like crazy? Usually when you first greet her coming home from work or
school, times when she's been alone for a while. Be prepared. Have a leash ready by that
entranceway and be armed with some treats. (you can leave Cheerios in a cup by the door. They
won't really go bad and are good quick treats). So, open the door and throw down the treats. While
your dog is distracted eating them up, get the leash on her collar. Now you have a "steering wheel" to
control her. When she starts to jump up, pull downwards on the leash and correct her with "NO!" or
"OFF!" Try not to say "get DOWN" or "DOWN" since "down" is a command to lay down and we don't
want her confused. Then try to command a "sit" and feel free to bribe her with the treats. If she sits,
praise her and pet her.
If she is continuing to jump, you have many options here to try. First, step on the leash so it's short
and she can't jump up. Many dogs will keep trying to jump against the leash's resistance. Let her tire
out trying. The SECOND she stops... either she will sit, or just stand... PRAISE her and tell her what a
good girl she is.
Here's the thing. Your dog wants your attention. If you yell at her or try to force her into a sit...
whatever... she doesn't care. She's getting your attention! So what if it's angry attention? It's attention!
That's why you are trying to only give her that attention and praise when she sits, or at least when she
has calmed down for a second. So the other methods are to try and IGNORE her.
(easier said than done, eh?)
If you have tried to get her to sit and she is just jumping like a maniac anyway, turn your back on her.
She'll most likely run to the front of you and try it again. Turn away again. Keep doing this until the
SECOND she either sits on her own, or at least stops jumping. Then PRAISE her. See, we're looking
for that moment she ISN'T jumping to give her that attention she craves. Hopefully you aren't wearing
nice clothes, because she has been rewarded for jumping so many time before that she'll keep trying
that old technique until she finally gives up. The idea here is to out last your dog. Stay firm and not
engage. You can try to command a sit, and certainly reward her when you get one. But really, the
message you are giving her is: You don't get the reward of my attention unless you are sitting, NOT
jumping.
You can also try walking away from her. Some dogs (especially herding breeds) will nip at your
ankles. That is certainly a technique they try to get our attention. It might be rough going, but still
ignore her. Try to give her a sit command. If she doesn't respond, keep walking away.
And it WILL be frustrating and very hard to hang in there. But she HAS been rewarded so many times
by you giving her attention (even if it's yelling) that she KNOWS this technique works. You have to work
against all of those times she was successful and limit her "reward" (attention or treats) to ONLY
when she is doing what you want her to.
Some other things to keep in mind: Approach her with calm energy. If she's excitable (and what puppy
isn't) you don't want to come in the door "Hey! Puppy, puppy, puppy! Woo-hoo!" Keep your voice
controlled and calm. "Good Girl" should be positive but low key. Then REALLY be strong with your
"NO!" or "OFF!" voice. Because we don't hit the dogs to train them anymore (thank goodness), we
really focus on vocal intonations. If you give a very stern "NO!" correction (especially if she isn't used to
it coming from you) she'll get the message right away. I often add a guttural growling tone to my "NO!"
to emulate the mother dog's growl that the puppy learned while she was nursing as meaning "no!"
from mom.
EVERYONE who comes in contact with your dog should do these training techniques. No petting or
treats unless she greets everyone nicely. Dogs learn by repetition, so the more times she learns "sit
instead of jump" the faster it will click. Likewise, if even ONE person rewards her by letting her jump
up or by giving her attention for her behavior, she has succeeded, and all the work you've done goes
out the window! Often I suggest when a visitor comes to the door that you don't answer the door until
your dog is on leash so you can correct and control the jumping. You can even leave your dog on
leash in the house. Let it be loose on the ground. That way you can easily grab the leash if something
triggers the jumping. Don't leave the leash on like that when no one is there to supervise just in case
it gets caught on something.
Little trick: Whenever I greet a new dog, I try to put my hands at their head level so they don't have to
jump up to get my attention. Then, while I have them distracted, I quickly slip my thumb onto their
collar. So if they do try to jump up on me (and there is no leash to help control) I can physically hold
them in place so they can't jump!
you to do something else instead. The "sit" command.
When does she normally jump like crazy? Usually when you first greet her coming home from work or
school, times when she's been alone for a while. Be prepared. Have a leash ready by that
entranceway and be armed with some treats. (you can leave Cheerios in a cup by the door. They
won't really go bad and are good quick treats). So, open the door and throw down the treats. While
your dog is distracted eating them up, get the leash on her collar. Now you have a "steering wheel" to
control her. When she starts to jump up, pull downwards on the leash and correct her with "NO!" or
"OFF!" Try not to say "get DOWN" or "DOWN" since "down" is a command to lay down and we don't
want her confused. Then try to command a "sit" and feel free to bribe her with the treats. If she sits,
praise her and pet her.
If she is continuing to jump, you have many options here to try. First, step on the leash so it's short
and she can't jump up. Many dogs will keep trying to jump against the leash's resistance. Let her tire
out trying. The SECOND she stops... either she will sit, or just stand... PRAISE her and tell her what a
good girl she is.
Here's the thing. Your dog wants your attention. If you yell at her or try to force her into a sit...
whatever... she doesn't care. She's getting your attention! So what if it's angry attention? It's attention!
That's why you are trying to only give her that attention and praise when she sits, or at least when she
has calmed down for a second. So the other methods are to try and IGNORE her.
(easier said than done, eh?)
If you have tried to get her to sit and she is just jumping like a maniac anyway, turn your back on her.
She'll most likely run to the front of you and try it again. Turn away again. Keep doing this until the
SECOND she either sits on her own, or at least stops jumping. Then PRAISE her. See, we're looking
for that moment she ISN'T jumping to give her that attention she craves. Hopefully you aren't wearing
nice clothes, because she has been rewarded for jumping so many time before that she'll keep trying
that old technique until she finally gives up. The idea here is to out last your dog. Stay firm and not
engage. You can try to command a sit, and certainly reward her when you get one. But really, the
message you are giving her is: You don't get the reward of my attention unless you are sitting, NOT
jumping.
You can also try walking away from her. Some dogs (especially herding breeds) will nip at your
ankles. That is certainly a technique they try to get our attention. It might be rough going, but still
ignore her. Try to give her a sit command. If she doesn't respond, keep walking away.
And it WILL be frustrating and very hard to hang in there. But she HAS been rewarded so many times
by you giving her attention (even if it's yelling) that she KNOWS this technique works. You have to work
against all of those times she was successful and limit her "reward" (attention or treats) to ONLY
when she is doing what you want her to.
Some other things to keep in mind: Approach her with calm energy. If she's excitable (and what puppy
isn't) you don't want to come in the door "Hey! Puppy, puppy, puppy! Woo-hoo!" Keep your voice
controlled and calm. "Good Girl" should be positive but low key. Then REALLY be strong with your
"NO!" or "OFF!" voice. Because we don't hit the dogs to train them anymore (thank goodness), we
really focus on vocal intonations. If you give a very stern "NO!" correction (especially if she isn't used to
it coming from you) she'll get the message right away. I often add a guttural growling tone to my "NO!"
to emulate the mother dog's growl that the puppy learned while she was nursing as meaning "no!"
from mom.
EVERYONE who comes in contact with your dog should do these training techniques. No petting or
treats unless she greets everyone nicely. Dogs learn by repetition, so the more times she learns "sit
instead of jump" the faster it will click. Likewise, if even ONE person rewards her by letting her jump
up or by giving her attention for her behavior, she has succeeded, and all the work you've done goes
out the window! Often I suggest when a visitor comes to the door that you don't answer the door until
your dog is on leash so you can correct and control the jumping. You can even leave your dog on
leash in the house. Let it be loose on the ground. That way you can easily grab the leash if something
triggers the jumping. Don't leave the leash on like that when no one is there to supervise just in case
it gets caught on something.
Little trick: Whenever I greet a new dog, I try to put my hands at their head level so they don't have to
jump up to get my attention. Then, while I have them distracted, I quickly slip my thumb onto their
collar. So if they do try to jump up on me (and there is no leash to help control) I can physically hold
them in place so they can't jump!
| Roc |
| Whiskey |
Question:
11. Jumping Up on Furniture
11. Jumping Up on Furniture
Some people opt to allow their dogs up on their furniture. I actually do. Whether you
choose to do it or not is entirely up to your preferences. Just remember, if you let Fido
up on the old ratty sofa, he won't know the difference when you finally get the brand new
one. If you think that will bother you (muddy paws, nails, hair) then don't let him up on
ANY sofa from the get go.
Here are some tips on training your dog to get down off of the people furniture and on to
his own doggie furniture.
choose to do it or not is entirely up to your preferences. Just remember, if you let Fido
up on the old ratty sofa, he won't know the difference when you finally get the brand new
one. If you think that will bother you (muddy paws, nails, hair) then don't let him up on
ANY sofa from the get go.
Here are some tips on training your dog to get down off of the people furniture and on to
his own doggie furniture.
understand why you tell him not to be up there when you're home, especially since he's clearly
understand why you tell him not to be up there when you're home, especially since he's clearly
decided it's "his" spot. Think about how many times he's gotten up there when you're not home
versus the few times he's been corrected by you! You have to work against all of those times he's
gotten away with it.
gotten away with it.
First step here is to prevent him from having access to the sofa (or any piece of furniture you don't
want him up on) when you aren't home. Don't be shy about isolating him in a small area. Kitchens,
small bathrooms or laundry rooms are usually good for this. If you don't have a door on the room,
use a baby gate or some other barricade. He doesn't deserve full run of the house until he learns
the rules first. If he's breaking them and no one is there to correct him, it will take that much longer
for the rules to sink in. If isolating him in a room won't work out with the lay out of your place, I'd at
least suggest making a blockade on the sofa so he can't get up there. I've known people to use
kitchen chairs or put upside-down laundry baskets with heavy books on top... basically cutting him
off from being able to get up there.
Next, make sure he has a spot of his own. Be it a doggie bed, pillow, a throw rug- something that he
knows is his. And it should be near the sofa (or bed if you are trying to keep the dog off of the bed,
etc.) so he can still feel like he's part of the family gathering. What I'd recommend is finding ways to
make him feel special about that spot. Give him treats when he's on it, belly rubs, special toys, etc.
I'd even start training him to go to it. Say "go to your bed" (or whatever you choose to call it) and walk
him over to it and make him do a "sit" or "down" command on it. Praise him like crazy when he does.
If you find him using it without anyone telling him to, praise him and give him treats! So now the idea
is, when he tries to go up on the sofa, you can do more than say "no don't do that" but say "do THIS
instead." That's a very important part of training. We all spend a lot of time telling them what not to
do, but don't give them another option, so it ends up frustrating the dog and making them keep trying
the same things over and over.
Now, when he does jump up on the sofa, pull him off of it and scold him. Be careful about which
word you use, however. Just like I mention above for dogs jumping up on us, if you have taught him
the word "down"as the command to lie down, you can't use "down" to mean "get down from there."
Generally I suggest using words like "no" or "off" instead of "down" as the correction word.
Another thing, try having him on leash in the house. Let it hang loose and free. It's your potential
steering wheel for when he jumps up on the sofa (never leave him on a loose leash when no one is
there to supervise in case it gets caught on something)
Now try this sequence: Command him with "off" and pull him off of the sofa with the leash. Then "in
your bed" and bring him over to his bed. Tell him to "Sit" in the bed and praise him when he does. If
he hassles you with barking or nipping and you can't get this to work, you have him on leash, so give
him a little tug to get his attention (as a sort of "stop barking and listen for a second!") and say "no!"
as he barks. Be firm in your voice. I even use a bit of a guttural sound when I say "No!" to emulate
the mother dog when she growls to tell her puppies they are doing something wrong. If he isn't
used to you using a strong vocal correction, he might bark more in defiance. OR he might be
stunned for a second like "where did THAT come from?:" Just hold firm and keep repeating it, all
the while trying to get him to go to his bed.
Worse case scenario, give him a "time out." If you are crate training, put him in his crate. If you don't
have a crate, shut him in a small bathroom or some place similar. You are looking for him to be
somewhere he can calm down and refocus. He may start barking while in there. You should ignore
his barking, much like we tried to ignore the dog jumping up on us as mentioned above. He'll be
unhappy and making a racket. Too bad. He only gets let out of the crate/room when he's stopped
barking. We ignore them so they can't get the reward and "win." And trust me, they keep it up and
you want to give in just to shut them up! But hang in there! Now, if you are trying to give him a
correction command like "off" and he starts barking at you, you can't ignore his barking reaction here
since this type of barking isn't about getting your attention, but about showing his frustration with the
situation and challenging your authority. So, instead, stand firm and keep trying to put him in a sit in
his bed.
Just like with all training, it's about repetition. Don't get frustrated. Keep correcting him no matter
how many times he jumps up on the furniture. With the correction balanced with the reward for
being in his own doggie bed, he'll learn that people furniture is off limits!
understand why you tell him not to be up there when you're home, especially since he's clearly
decided it's "his" spot. Think about how many times he's gotten up there when you're not home
versus the few times he's been corrected by you! You have to work against all of those times he's
gotten away with it.
gotten away with it.
First step here is to prevent him from having access to the sofa (or any piece of furniture you don't
want him up on) when you aren't home. Don't be shy about isolating him in a small area. Kitchens,
small bathrooms or laundry rooms are usually good for this. If you don't have a door on the room,
use a baby gate or some other barricade. He doesn't deserve full run of the house until he learns
the rules first. If he's breaking them and no one is there to correct him, it will take that much longer
for the rules to sink in. If isolating him in a room won't work out with the lay out of your place, I'd at
least suggest making a blockade on the sofa so he can't get up there. I've known people to use
kitchen chairs or put upside-down laundry baskets with heavy books on top... basically cutting him
off from being able to get up there.
Next, make sure he has a spot of his own. Be it a doggie bed, pillow, a throw rug- something that he
knows is his. And it should be near the sofa (or bed if you are trying to keep the dog off of the bed,
etc.) so he can still feel like he's part of the family gathering. What I'd recommend is finding ways to
make him feel special about that spot. Give him treats when he's on it, belly rubs, special toys, etc.
I'd even start training him to go to it. Say "go to your bed" (or whatever you choose to call it) and walk
him over to it and make him do a "sit" or "down" command on it. Praise him like crazy when he does.
If you find him using it without anyone telling him to, praise him and give him treats! So now the idea
is, when he tries to go up on the sofa, you can do more than say "no don't do that" but say "do THIS
instead." That's a very important part of training. We all spend a lot of time telling them what not to
do, but don't give them another option, so it ends up frustrating the dog and making them keep trying
the same things over and over.
Now, when he does jump up on the sofa, pull him off of it and scold him. Be careful about which
word you use, however. Just like I mention above for dogs jumping up on us, if you have taught him
the word "down"as the command to lie down, you can't use "down" to mean "get down from there."
Generally I suggest using words like "no" or "off" instead of "down" as the correction word.
Another thing, try having him on leash in the house. Let it hang loose and free. It's your potential
steering wheel for when he jumps up on the sofa (never leave him on a loose leash when no one is
there to supervise in case it gets caught on something)
Now try this sequence: Command him with "off" and pull him off of the sofa with the leash. Then "in
your bed" and bring him over to his bed. Tell him to "Sit" in the bed and praise him when he does. If
he hassles you with barking or nipping and you can't get this to work, you have him on leash, so give
him a little tug to get his attention (as a sort of "stop barking and listen for a second!") and say "no!"
as he barks. Be firm in your voice. I even use a bit of a guttural sound when I say "No!" to emulate
the mother dog when she growls to tell her puppies they are doing something wrong. If he isn't
used to you using a strong vocal correction, he might bark more in defiance. OR he might be
stunned for a second like "where did THAT come from?:" Just hold firm and keep repeating it, all
the while trying to get him to go to his bed.
Worse case scenario, give him a "time out." If you are crate training, put him in his crate. If you don't
have a crate, shut him in a small bathroom or some place similar. You are looking for him to be
somewhere he can calm down and refocus. He may start barking while in there. You should ignore
his barking, much like we tried to ignore the dog jumping up on us as mentioned above. He'll be
unhappy and making a racket. Too bad. He only gets let out of the crate/room when he's stopped
barking. We ignore them so they can't get the reward and "win." And trust me, they keep it up and
you want to give in just to shut them up! But hang in there! Now, if you are trying to give him a
correction command like "off" and he starts barking at you, you can't ignore his barking reaction here
since this type of barking isn't about getting your attention, but about showing his frustration with the
situation and challenging your authority. So, instead, stand firm and keep trying to put him in a sit in
his bed.
Just like with all training, it's about repetition. Don't get frustrated. Keep correcting him no matter
how many times he jumps up on the furniture. With the correction balanced with the reward for
being in his own doggie bed, he'll learn that people furniture is off limits!
| Dalton |
| Kylie |
Question:
12. Separation Anxiety
12. Separation Anxiety
I often get questions related to forms of Separation Anxiety. Certainly rescue dogs are
prone to suffer from this, but other dogs can develop levels of it, as well. One symptom
of anxiety is obsessive barking. Not just a "hey, where are you guys going?" bark, or
the "I heard someone walking by" bark, but barking that doesn't stop and continues
LONG after you've departed (and the neighbors are going nuts). Described by an owner
as: "whenever someone leaves to go outside, he acts like he is being left forever and screams."
Another symptom is destructive behavior. This isn't a bored dog looking for ways to get
out energy, but a dog that is so anxiety ridden that he tears the house limb from limb,
but he doesn't do this behavior when you are there.
This technique is a place to begin. Anxiety can have many levels to it, so you may have
to look at getting very specific to your dog. But at least you can start here:
prone to suffer from this, but other dogs can develop levels of it, as well. One symptom
of anxiety is obsessive barking. Not just a "hey, where are you guys going?" bark, or
the "I heard someone walking by" bark, but barking that doesn't stop and continues
LONG after you've departed (and the neighbors are going nuts). Described by an owner
as: "whenever someone leaves to go outside, he acts like he is being left forever and screams."
Another symptom is destructive behavior. This isn't a bored dog looking for ways to get
out energy, but a dog that is so anxiety ridden that he tears the house limb from limb,
but he doesn't do this behavior when you are there.
This technique is a place to begin. Anxiety can have many levels to it, so you may have
to look at getting very specific to your dog. But at least you can start here:
Get your dog used to your leaving. Dogs are pack animals and being left alone is generally unnatural
for them (unlike cats, for example). But they can learn it's okay.
Pretend to be getting ready to go out. Do your normal routine of grabbing your purse, keys, bag,
jacket, whatever it is you normally would do just before you leave the house. The dog knows those
signals mean you're leaving, just like they know when you open the "magic cabinet" dinner is soon to
follow. Next, step outside. If you are in a dwelling where the dog can also hear the car being started
either from the driveway or garage, do that, too. After 5 minutes, turn off the car and walk back inside
and greet the dog. You are showing him that even though you leave, you also do come back.
Dogs have a very short attention span. When we leave for an hour or eight, they feel like we've been
gone for a millennium. So here you are returning really quickly. He will still freshly remember your
leaving, and now will associate leaving with you also returning.
Try this technique a few times in a row. Then stop. Do it again the next day, then the next. Just a few
times each day. Dogs learn through repetition. So if you are able to run this technique each day he'll
remember it faster. You leave, but you return, too.
Once the five minute time frame is helping him feel more relaxed, you can add time to it. Stay outside
for 10 minutes. Do that for a few days. Then 15 minutes and so on. You are adding time so he will
get used to your absence being longer and longer. Of course life is still going on and you DO have to
leave for a longer time, but with this technique thrown in there, he'll be sort of tricked into thinking,
"well, they're leaving now... but this might be the time they come right back, so it's not scary, I'm okay."
OTHER HINTS:
Exercise
The more exercise your dog gets, the more exhausted he is- which will hopefully lead to a nap
instead of an all afternoon anxiety barking/destructive fest. MINIMUM I recommend two 15 minute
walks a day. (Yes, I said EACH DAY) But the younger the dog, the more energy there is. And don't
forget, many breeds were originally used for high energy work (like Dalmations, Retrievers, Herding
breeds...) so these guys might need more exercise.
Try an Anti-Anxiety Treatment
There is a variety of over-the-counter anxiety treatments. Some are all natural drops or pills meant to
calm the dog naturally. Others resemble a "Glade Plug-in" which slowly releases pheromones into
the air to relax a jittery dog. And when I say "calm" I just mean taking the edge off. Your dog doesn't
suddenly become comatose on these products. Just hopefully a bit less anxiety ridden. I, personally,
have had success with "Comfort Zone," one of the Glade-like devises. But all dogs are different. You
may even try more than one before you find one that works for you. Read the labels and see which
you are most comfortable with. And when getting the "Plug-in" one, you'll need to double check the
square footage area it covers. One Plug-in in an enormous living room will discipate too much and
not have any effect. Read the label to be sure.
Crate Training
I walk through the specifics of Crate Training under Question 4 on the previous page. But the reason
it works here remains that dogs are "den" animals and when an anxiety ridden dog is left in an entire
house or yard by themselves, it is frightening and feels unsafe. By being secured in a small crate
he'll feel more in control of his own environment. You may even want to throw a towel or blanket over
the crate to make it dark, and play some classical music to mask outside noises. If you don't have a
crate, you can try using a small room like a bathroom or laundry room, but if your dog is destructive,
you will need to clear the room of anything he may damage.
A Friend
Yup, giving your lonely dog another dog to hang out with while you go about your life outside of home
can be helpful. If you aren't ready to bring another permanent pup into the house, try Doggie Daycare.
You can drop your dog off to be watched by professionals all day, and get socialization with other
canines. Or save some money and try working out a system with some friends who have
"only-dogs." Rotate dropping off the dog at each others' homes to allow them to play together all day.
Of course you are going to need to make sure both dogs are amendable to the arrangements. The
professional Daycares will do an assessment of your dog's socialization skills. So should you if
you're leaving your dog with a friend. But not all dogs are cured by having another dog around.
Sometimes the anxiety is greater than a Pooch Pal can help.
Private Trainer
You know I don't push private trainers because so many problems dogs have can be successfully
worked out in the far less expensive Group Obedience Classes. HOWEVER, Anxiety isn't one of
those easy fixes. Have a professional come to your home to evaluate the situation. There are often
subtleties to anxiety that a trained eye can catch and help you correct. Try the above methods first,
then call in the big guns.
Vet Prescribed Medication
If all else fails, make an appointment with your Vet. There are more "heavy duty" anxiety medications
that only a doctor can prescribe. These meds often do make the dog very lethargic (depending). Talk
with the Vet and see if he/she thinks the medication will help your specific situation.
In general, the crate or anxiety medication are meant to "get over the hump" and not meant to be long
term. By using these methods AND doing the technique I describe, you will be able to work away
from the anxiety.
Just remember to have patience. We can't read our dogs minds or understand what has brought
them to a place of such severe separation anxiety. But we can show them that they are in a safe
place filled with people who love them. This will build their confidence and help them when they are
faced with those long hours alone.
for them (unlike cats, for example). But they can learn it's okay.
Pretend to be getting ready to go out. Do your normal routine of grabbing your purse, keys, bag,
jacket, whatever it is you normally would do just before you leave the house. The dog knows those
signals mean you're leaving, just like they know when you open the "magic cabinet" dinner is soon to
follow. Next, step outside. If you are in a dwelling where the dog can also hear the car being started
either from the driveway or garage, do that, too. After 5 minutes, turn off the car and walk back inside
and greet the dog. You are showing him that even though you leave, you also do come back.
Dogs have a very short attention span. When we leave for an hour or eight, they feel like we've been
gone for a millennium. So here you are returning really quickly. He will still freshly remember your
leaving, and now will associate leaving with you also returning.
Try this technique a few times in a row. Then stop. Do it again the next day, then the next. Just a few
times each day. Dogs learn through repetition. So if you are able to run this technique each day he'll
remember it faster. You leave, but you return, too.
Once the five minute time frame is helping him feel more relaxed, you can add time to it. Stay outside
for 10 minutes. Do that for a few days. Then 15 minutes and so on. You are adding time so he will
get used to your absence being longer and longer. Of course life is still going on and you DO have to
leave for a longer time, but with this technique thrown in there, he'll be sort of tricked into thinking,
"well, they're leaving now... but this might be the time they come right back, so it's not scary, I'm okay."
OTHER HINTS:
Exercise
The more exercise your dog gets, the more exhausted he is- which will hopefully lead to a nap
instead of an all afternoon anxiety barking/destructive fest. MINIMUM I recommend two 15 minute
walks a day. (Yes, I said EACH DAY) But the younger the dog, the more energy there is. And don't
forget, many breeds were originally used for high energy work (like Dalmations, Retrievers, Herding
breeds...) so these guys might need more exercise.
Try an Anti-Anxiety Treatment
There is a variety of over-the-counter anxiety treatments. Some are all natural drops or pills meant to
calm the dog naturally. Others resemble a "Glade Plug-in" which slowly releases pheromones into
the air to relax a jittery dog. And when I say "calm" I just mean taking the edge off. Your dog doesn't
suddenly become comatose on these products. Just hopefully a bit less anxiety ridden. I, personally,
have had success with "Comfort Zone," one of the Glade-like devises. But all dogs are different. You
may even try more than one before you find one that works for you. Read the labels and see which
you are most comfortable with. And when getting the "Plug-in" one, you'll need to double check the
square footage area it covers. One Plug-in in an enormous living room will discipate too much and
not have any effect. Read the label to be sure.
Crate Training
I walk through the specifics of Crate Training under Question 4 on the previous page. But the reason
it works here remains that dogs are "den" animals and when an anxiety ridden dog is left in an entire
house or yard by themselves, it is frightening and feels unsafe. By being secured in a small crate
he'll feel more in control of his own environment. You may even want to throw a towel or blanket over
the crate to make it dark, and play some classical music to mask outside noises. If you don't have a
crate, you can try using a small room like a bathroom or laundry room, but if your dog is destructive,
you will need to clear the room of anything he may damage.
A Friend
Yup, giving your lonely dog another dog to hang out with while you go about your life outside of home
can be helpful. If you aren't ready to bring another permanent pup into the house, try Doggie Daycare.
You can drop your dog off to be watched by professionals all day, and get socialization with other
canines. Or save some money and try working out a system with some friends who have
"only-dogs." Rotate dropping off the dog at each others' homes to allow them to play together all day.
Of course you are going to need to make sure both dogs are amendable to the arrangements. The
professional Daycares will do an assessment of your dog's socialization skills. So should you if
you're leaving your dog with a friend. But not all dogs are cured by having another dog around.
Sometimes the anxiety is greater than a Pooch Pal can help.
Private Trainer
You know I don't push private trainers because so many problems dogs have can be successfully
worked out in the far less expensive Group Obedience Classes. HOWEVER, Anxiety isn't one of
those easy fixes. Have a professional come to your home to evaluate the situation. There are often
subtleties to anxiety that a trained eye can catch and help you correct. Try the above methods first,
then call in the big guns.
Vet Prescribed Medication
If all else fails, make an appointment with your Vet. There are more "heavy duty" anxiety medications
that only a doctor can prescribe. These meds often do make the dog very lethargic (depending). Talk
with the Vet and see if he/she thinks the medication will help your specific situation.
In general, the crate or anxiety medication are meant to "get over the hump" and not meant to be long
term. By using these methods AND doing the technique I describe, you will be able to work away
from the anxiety.
Just remember to have patience. We can't read our dogs minds or understand what has brought
them to a place of such severe separation anxiety. But we can show them that they are in a safe
place filled with people who love them. This will build their confidence and help them when they are
faced with those long hours alone.
| Gracie |
| Lizzie |
Question:
13. Territorial Biting:
When a Dog Bites the Hand that Feeds Him
13. Territorial Biting:
When a Dog Bites the Hand that Feeds Him
This morning my friend was bitten by her usually very sweet, calm and well-behaved
Jack Russell Terrier. (2 1/2 years-old) She is extremely upset, as this was the first time,
and it was inappropriate and frightening. The dog reacted suddenly to having something
removed from his mouth by his caretaker, my friend. What should her corrective
measures be, and is this a potentially serious situation? The dog has shown a lot of
remorse for this misbehavior.
Jack Russell Terrier. (2 1/2 years-old) She is extremely upset, as this was the first time,
and it was inappropriate and frightening. The dog reacted suddenly to having something
removed from his mouth by his caretaker, my friend. What should her corrective
measures be, and is this a potentially serious situation? The dog has shown a lot of
remorse for this misbehavior.
KNOW YOUR DOG'S TEMPERAMENT!
First of all, every dog has the potential to bite under the "right" circumstances. As much as we
personify human characteristics and emotions onto dogs, they are still animals and we need to be
aware that even the nicest dog has the potential to use his teeth on us. In the question emailed to
me the dog is described as usually sweet and calm. This is where I will base my answer. I'd be
more tentative if the dog had a history of biting or, perhaps, is a rescue who is new to the home (and
probably has had to fight for his food). I'd definitely be more careful if there are small children in the
home. Although all children should learn never to take anything from a dog's mouth, most kids will
try, and we don't want a bitten finger to turn into a lawsuit (or worse).
ANSWER:
It sounds like this JRT was being territorial. Basically, this is mine, I don't want you to take it. The
actual issue at hand here is that the dog isn't accepting his owner as the dominant one in the
relationship. His snapping to try to retain control of the object is putting the owner at a level equal or
below him. For example, if a sibling puppy tried to take a toy from him, he'd show his dislike by trying
to snap to keep the toy. A sort of "back off, it's mine!" reaction. Two siblings are equal, and that kind
of behavior teaches them boundaries and socialization. HOWEVER, if the mother dog tried to take
the same toy from him, knowing she's mom and in charge, he would submit and allow her to have it.
Puppies learn this ranking and socialization right after birth.
The hard part in human-to-dog relationships is to establish that we are the "top dog" and in charge in
every and all situations. And dogs will constantly try to push this boundary. To me, it appears that
this JRT needs a refresher course in who is in charge at home.
At this point, nipping the nipping in the bud will eliminate any potential of this getting more serious.
What I foresee right now (only on the info you've told me) is that the JRT might start getting more
territorial about different things he deems important. If left uncorrected, he will continue to bite in
order to preserve what he wants... which is control of the objects he is "protecting." This could be
more serious when, perhaps, a small child is the one innocently trying to take a toy from him. Or he
might feel another dog in the room is a threat to his "object" and bite the other dog... which will most
likely cause the other dog to react and bite back -- and now you have a potentially dangerous mix of
fighting dogs. (This happened to my dog and she had to get staples above her eye because SHE
started it when another dog walked past her rawhide bone. She no longer gets rawhide bones
around other dogs.)
Right now I'd recommend your friend working extensively to show she's in charge. Definitely drill the
basics like sit/stay and down/stay. The JRT shouldn't move from the stay until your friend gives a
release command. Make sure she uses a strong, deep "NO!" voice. I even throw in a bit of a guttural
growl sound to my "NO!" to emulate the mother dog growling to discipline her puppies. (especially
effective in this correction) I'd also have her practice putting him in a stay command and then putting
his dinner bowl down. She should be able to stand up straight, wait a moment, then release him
before he charges for the bowl. This is a good way to show that she has the dominance over him
because SHE controls his food. If he tries to run to the bowl before she says it's okay, she should
pull the bowl up in the air and reset him into the stay. Doing this repeatedly until he stays put. She
can even take it a step further and hand feed him once piece of kibble at a time. This is an excellent
method to drill into the dog that his food is dependent upon this person. If he gets too "mouthy" and
nippy for the kibble, she should stop, stand up, and walk away. The message to him is "if you don't
eat nicely, you don't eat at all."
DROP IT COMMAND
She can also train a "drop it" command. When he has a toy in his mouth, she offers him a trade for
his favorite treat. (Treats don't have to be food! They can also be another favorite toy. Whatever your
dog goes crazy for!) When he releases the toy and takes the treat, she says "DROP IT" and then
praises him, "Good Drop it." Repeat over and over in one sitting. Try to do this every day for at least 5
minutes at a time. He'll learn that the words "drop it" mean to release what he has in his mouth, and
then he'll be rewarded when he does so, making him excited to release the object. Never play
tug-of-war with a dog while training the "drop it" command. They will see that as a game and a
challenge and not learn to let go. If they do try to tug, you let go and walk away, taking your treats with
you. Generally dogs will realize the game has stopped and approach you again. Then you can
continue to try teaching "drop it."
If he does bite again, the best immediate response is for her to give an angry "NO!" and isolate him in
a crate if she's been crate training him, or at least a small bathroom or laundry room. Even if he has
to go in there with the object. What he won't have is treats or attention.
As for the dog feeling remorse about the incident, he most likely has been reading her body
language. As you mention, she was very upset and surprised by his biting her. She is probably
acting a bit differently to him now, not quite trusting him as fully as she did before, and he is sensing
it. After she drills the ranking with him, the trust will grow again and I'm sure their relationship with
be on the mends.
First of all, every dog has the potential to bite under the "right" circumstances. As much as we
personify human characteristics and emotions onto dogs, they are still animals and we need to be
aware that even the nicest dog has the potential to use his teeth on us. In the question emailed to
me the dog is described as usually sweet and calm. This is where I will base my answer. I'd be
more tentative if the dog had a history of biting or, perhaps, is a rescue who is new to the home (and
probably has had to fight for his food). I'd definitely be more careful if there are small children in the
home. Although all children should learn never to take anything from a dog's mouth, most kids will
try, and we don't want a bitten finger to turn into a lawsuit (or worse).
ANSWER:
It sounds like this JRT was being territorial. Basically, this is mine, I don't want you to take it. The
actual issue at hand here is that the dog isn't accepting his owner as the dominant one in the
relationship. His snapping to try to retain control of the object is putting the owner at a level equal or
below him. For example, if a sibling puppy tried to take a toy from him, he'd show his dislike by trying
to snap to keep the toy. A sort of "back off, it's mine!" reaction. Two siblings are equal, and that kind
of behavior teaches them boundaries and socialization. HOWEVER, if the mother dog tried to take
the same toy from him, knowing she's mom and in charge, he would submit and allow her to have it.
Puppies learn this ranking and socialization right after birth.
The hard part in human-to-dog relationships is to establish that we are the "top dog" and in charge in
every and all situations. And dogs will constantly try to push this boundary. To me, it appears that
this JRT needs a refresher course in who is in charge at home.
At this point, nipping the nipping in the bud will eliminate any potential of this getting more serious.
What I foresee right now (only on the info you've told me) is that the JRT might start getting more
territorial about different things he deems important. If left uncorrected, he will continue to bite in
order to preserve what he wants... which is control of the objects he is "protecting." This could be
more serious when, perhaps, a small child is the one innocently trying to take a toy from him. Or he
might feel another dog in the room is a threat to his "object" and bite the other dog... which will most
likely cause the other dog to react and bite back -- and now you have a potentially dangerous mix of
fighting dogs. (This happened to my dog and she had to get staples above her eye because SHE
started it when another dog walked past her rawhide bone. She no longer gets rawhide bones
around other dogs.)
Right now I'd recommend your friend working extensively to show she's in charge. Definitely drill the
basics like sit/stay and down/stay. The JRT shouldn't move from the stay until your friend gives a
release command. Make sure she uses a strong, deep "NO!" voice. I even throw in a bit of a guttural
growl sound to my "NO!" to emulate the mother dog growling to discipline her puppies. (especially
effective in this correction) I'd also have her practice putting him in a stay command and then putting
his dinner bowl down. She should be able to stand up straight, wait a moment, then release him
before he charges for the bowl. This is a good way to show that she has the dominance over him
because SHE controls his food. If he tries to run to the bowl before she says it's okay, she should
pull the bowl up in the air and reset him into the stay. Doing this repeatedly until he stays put. She
can even take it a step further and hand feed him once piece of kibble at a time. This is an excellent
method to drill into the dog that his food is dependent upon this person. If he gets too "mouthy" and
nippy for the kibble, she should stop, stand up, and walk away. The message to him is "if you don't
eat nicely, you don't eat at all."
DROP IT COMMAND
She can also train a "drop it" command. When he has a toy in his mouth, she offers him a trade for
his favorite treat. (Treats don't have to be food! They can also be another favorite toy. Whatever your
dog goes crazy for!) When he releases the toy and takes the treat, she says "DROP IT" and then
praises him, "Good Drop it." Repeat over and over in one sitting. Try to do this every day for at least 5
minutes at a time. He'll learn that the words "drop it" mean to release what he has in his mouth, and
then he'll be rewarded when he does so, making him excited to release the object. Never play
tug-of-war with a dog while training the "drop it" command. They will see that as a game and a
challenge and not learn to let go. If they do try to tug, you let go and walk away, taking your treats with
you. Generally dogs will realize the game has stopped and approach you again. Then you can
continue to try teaching "drop it."
If he does bite again, the best immediate response is for her to give an angry "NO!" and isolate him in
a crate if she's been crate training him, or at least a small bathroom or laundry room. Even if he has
to go in there with the object. What he won't have is treats or attention.
As for the dog feeling remorse about the incident, he most likely has been reading her body
language. As you mention, she was very upset and surprised by his biting her. She is probably
acting a bit differently to him now, not quite trusting him as fully as she did before, and he is sensing
it. After she drills the ranking with him, the trust will grow again and I'm sure their relationship with
be on the mends.
| Charley |
| Gus |